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Adventures in Writing, Reading & Book Culture

Krakow #3 — Food

AsiaMark on Krakow TrainThe Poles like their savory and their sweet. On our first morning, having checked in at Nathan’s Hostel and walked back to the market square, we found little breakfast bread carts handled by older men & women. The sold preztle-like rolls: little donut-hole bites; traditionally-shaped pretzels, stringy and fresh; and wreath-shaped thick rolls with crusty skins and moist centers. These were delicious. I munched on one in the morning, and the next day we ended up eating another for lunch while at the botanica.

We wanted to taste some traditional Polish cuisine, which meant finding a pieróg house. Off the city center we found a cellar restaurant advertising just this. The basement restaurant was built with the local white stone, high ceilings, wide archways. I ordered a plate of pieróg and a plate of chicken livers w/carmelized onion & cabbage. Asia had chicken breast with a wine sauce & fries. We chowed! The pieróg were stuffed with potato and cheese, basted with bacon drippings. So good I grunted often as I ate, washing them down with two half-liters of Tiskie beer. The chicken livers were delectably prepared and an excellent compliment to the dumplings.

AsiaMark at Vistula River

Dinner that first night found us eating lightly: fruit and bread, tea and whiskey. On Sunday, Asia had a taste for a hamburger, but we didn’t quite find a place serving that, and anyway we ended up walking out a kilometer or so to the botanic gardens, in which we found benches beneath a blazing autumn sun to eat our pretzel roll.

But Sunday night, we decided to hang close to the hostel, and found the Horoscope Restaurant at the foot of Wawel Castle. Here we both ordered pieróg (meat stuffed; a sort of liver-beef mixture) with, again, bacon drippings. We split a Greek salad that came as a whole head of iceberg lettuce with the Greek feta, olives, onion & etc, dressed with a sweet vinagrette. We chowed this meal, too, because we didn’t want to get on the 10:00 train hungry. No problem with that.

Asia at Nathan’s Hostel

Oddly enough, we didn’t take many “food” pictures this time.

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