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Adventures in Writing, Reading & Book Culture

Vinohrady Neighborhood

By the church at JzPPraha 2 is on a hill well behind Old Town, but not too far that a 15-minute walk won’t suddenly find you beneath “the horse” (King Wenceslaus statue) at the top of Wenceslaus Square. From there it’s just another 10 minutes to Karlov Most (Charles Bridge). So you see, Prague is not such a big city, though there is a lot more of the new, block-construction “flat cities” reaching far out from Vltava River and Praza Centru.

Jack Daniels signI went out walking today after dinner, around 6.30, when the sun was still 30-degrees from the horizon. I want to get the lay of the land around Lezska street. So I found a billiards hall two blocks away, with real 9-ft billiard tables and 8 or 9-ft pool table. Prices are 140 Kc per hour during peak evening times. I poked my head in there at 8 pm and many table were open. They have a bar, and above the outside door is a Jack Daniel’s sign with some Czech slogan on it which I think translates to “Jack’s birthday is the month of September!” Can’t go wrong with that.

Just down the street is a Puerto Rican restaurant (or at least its Czech equivalent). Kitty-Korner across the street is a hole-in-the-wall watering spot that has Gambrinus beer for 23 Kc for a half liter (that’s about $1.09).

Church with illuminated clockAround the corner and over by St So-and-So’s church (at Jiriho z Podebrad metro), there’s another pub with outdoor seating that gives a great view of the huge square, surrounded by some amazing architectural apartment houses. (more cheap beer). St So-and-So’s church isn’t the prettiest church in Prague, but it has a significant variation on the standard church-a-chock’a-block style: a huge transparent clock is set in the center of a wide, flat tower. The clock doesn’t work. It’s stuck on twelve o’clock. Midnight or Noon is not specified. Perhaps this is a sign to Jesus: if you’re still interested in your own “second coming” you’re a bit late.

So, to recap the neighborhood: pubs (pivovarska), restaurants, wine bars (vinotecka), fresh fruit & veg stands, supermarkets, mom-and-pop shops of all assortment, parks both LARGE and small, squares of breath and beauty, rehapped apartment building that recapture their original art deco or baroque themes, noise-some namesta and quiet gardens. Paradise.

Prague architecture

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