Chamonix is finally getting snow, even if it often rains in the valley while dumping powder up top. This morning on the backside off-piste forests of Le Tour, visibility suffered up top with that snow (and wind). The upper reaches were empty and waiting for our tracks. It was adventurous with the exposed scrub brush (yes, there is that little snow in may places), yet there were long patchs that let you slide through onto some wide, exposed, deep snow drops. Tree skiing at its best, despite the weather.

The warm temps still held halfway down the mountain, though. Actually, rain soaked you getting onto the lift, then into the clouds and driving snow as you rose. Skiing down this stretch, the snow became heavy, grabbing your boots and edges, so you point your skis downmountain and hang on. Four runs like that and we were tired, wet, and confused in the blizzard up top. It was time to get down to the train station and back into Cham.

I must say: the little café attached to the Villacorn [sic?] train station had the most fabulous lunch special: steak smothered in red cabbage bits, fresh steamed carrots, a giant potato pancake, and a salad. Perhaps the best meal I’ve had in Chamonix yet, actually. And all for 14 euros.

If you don’t have a car, as neither myself nor Brian has, the best way to get quickly to some great skiing is to take the Chamonix Valley Express train. It hits lots of stops, is only a 10 minute walk for me, more reliable than bus service, and stops close to the better ski areas in the valley. Ride in comfort. Ski like the devil in disguise. Trundle back home on the rails.